Sunday, August 14, 2016

Gratitude Day 95 - Surfing!

There is a book that I am writing and I play with the idea of making the title "How Surfing Saved My Life". I probably won't use that title, but the truth remains, surfing is one of the most powerful things that I appreciate so much and has helped save my life. I started surfing when I moved to Maui. Now
over 20 years later, it is still the one thing that helps me so much.

Just being out in the ocean brings a smile to my face. It is like the waves help me wash away all the thoughts that start to crowed inside my mind and I can just be.

It's probably why I'm so addicted to surfing. It's the one place were I feel so alive and free. I can just be in the moment and feel pure joy. I just love it so much.

I am so grateful for surfing. It is the one thing that was powerful enough to help me change my life around. It was such a catalyst for me in healing and overcoming so much of the pain and anger that I held inside as a child and it helped me find the way to let it go.

The ocean is my church, my teacher, my healer. The place I find joy and the place I learn lessons. I respect the ocean so much. The ocean is a pure element. Like a great force of nature, it just is. It is flow, movement and power. It can give me the best ride of my life, or tear me apart like a rag doll. There is no judgement, there is no emotion... it just is. It holds a mirror to my soul, and shows me who I am inside and it holds the image in pure truth. I can't lie. The ocean helps me face the image that I see and then I can choose to change it if I don't like what I'm looking at.

And surfing is the key. It is my magic carpet. It is the tool that helps me look into the mirror. It is my pew in my church, my place of connection.

As I think about how much surfing means to me, I am so grateful. I am so grateful I found it and that I have it in my life. In my heart I wish for everyone that they can find their thing that clicks for them. That special thing that whatever it may be.


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